Bologna, part 2

 Today took us to the Basilica di Santo Stefano, a cluster of ancient Christian religious buildings including a reproduction of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem.

Monastery cloisters

Chapel devoted to saints Vitali and Agricola, Christian martyrs who were entombed here around 300 AD.

The sepulchure above is copied from the tomb of Jesus, or so it is said. The only relic we saw today was the skull of San Giuliana, who we think is a 15th century saint who had sole custody of her children when her then husband decided to dedicate his life to the church. Um, so what else is new?

Holy Sepulchure

A different kind of beauty. Not holy at all? Maybe more holy? And now for more porticos in stone and wood.

The rest of the day so far has been spent walking in a city park and enjoying a leisurely lunch with a local San Giovese and, of course, pasta: tagliatelle Bolognese for John and tortellini en brodo for me, and then a nap.  

The next adventure, day 1.5: Bologna!

In 2025, the year of adventure, we are off once again. It took 36 hours to get here, but we are in beautiful Bologna, Italy, starting our month-long journey to cap off my 65th year and celebrate 30 years of partnership.

Travel was long and crowded but what a reward at the finale to fly over the Alps! I’d never seen this view before of the snowy mountains, green valleys and Alpine lakes.

Bologna is famous for its porticos, and our first experience of them did not disappoint. They are everywhere, and whether original or restored, graffitied or adorned more civilly, they are delightful.

Bologna dates back to the Etruscans, but was rebuilt layer by layer by the Celts, Romans and all the centuries of Italians thereafter. From the 12th through 16th century, it was like Venice a city that used canals to transport people and merchandise. Although the canals have been paved over, you can still see a few of the remnants.

Also prevalent everywhere are the walls, towers and porticos that once protected the city from invaders.

The Garisenda tower was built in the 12th century and is now leaning more than the one in Pisa.

Not surprisingly, the city is filled with churches and cathedrals. 

This is Basilica Collegiata Santi Bartolommeo e Gaetano, consecrated in 1516.

It is painted on all the walls and ceilings and lit mostly by many domed windows.

Basilica di San Petronio is enormous but unfinished. Its construction began in 1390 funded by civil monies to honor the patron saint of Bologna. But because it was intended to surpass St Peter’s in Rome in size and grandeur, the Pope stopped the project and its funding. Although many of its walls remain unadorned, it is super impressive in its size and imposing views, and remains important to the identity of this city.

Perhaps my favorite part is this meridian line in the floor that serves as a sundial around noon when light through a tiny hole in the ceiling shines a circle of illumination on the line corresponding to the time and day.

The line also marks the date according to the zodiac. An odd blend of science, religion and spirituality.

Olympic National Park

The final leg of the great Canadian adventure actually ends across the border back in the US on the western coast of Washington. Here John and I are spending two days enjoying natural beauty along the Sol Duc and Hoh rivers. The Sol Duc at this time of year is home territory for coho salmon who swim upriver from the ocean to spawn.

Mature salmon gather in the clear river water to rest before heading further upstream.

If you look closely, you can see a salmon jumping in the middle of the waterfall in an attempt to fling itself up the rushing water. An amazing site that we were lucky to see.

I’m always a sucker for a hike to see waterfalls.

Sol Duc didn’t disappoint, even though it was crowded.

Today’s highlight was in the Hoh, one of the only a few temperate rainforests in the continental US. There we hiked among giant old trees, ferns taller than me, and many kinds of moss, mushrooms and lichen. Definitely one of the most beautiful hikes I’ve done.

Felled old growth tree 

Giant root ball of a felled tree that has decayed and provided nutrients for other trees and plants growing from it. Note the new growth on top.

These trees are in a line because they all started their life in a felled tree that we call a nursery log because, like the roots in the above photo, the dead tree nursed the other trees to grow before it disappeared into the forest floor.

So many plants cohabitate in this moist rich environment. If only a diversity of humans could do the same.

Final stop: Ruby Beach, on the Pacific coast.

More beauty.

More trees.

More love from us. See you again from Italy!

Victoria, BC

Greetings from BC’s capital city of Victoria. I am traveling with John now, and we’ve left Vancouver and crossed the Strait of Georgia to Vancouver Island.

Beautiful 90-minute ride

The Queen of Cowichan ferry carried over 150 cars, plus people. Cowichan is the name of some of the First Nation Salish people.

Fairmont Empress in Victoria

Another beautiful old hotel

Provincial capital building

Bastion Square

Munro’s Bookstore founded by writer Alice Munro and her first husband James

A dumpling shop in Chinatown

Fan Tan Alley

Only the Chinatown in San Francisco is older.

Finally some sites from Beacon Hill Park

Moss Lady

Wandering peacock

Canada goose

Oh, and this wildlife sighting…

Au revoir for now.  See you back in the states.