This area of Umbria is all about St. Francis, and like the American claims from my childhood that “George Washington slept here,” I cannot vouch for anything you are about to read, starting with the hermitage of Carceri on Mount Subasio above Assisi.
This hermitage is said to have been Frances’ retreat, where he lived with his devout colleagues in the woods and communed with nature while taking a vow of poverty. It is a peaceful retreat founded in 1426 that has been well preserved in the name of the Franciscans.
The original well
Tables to take meals
A pledge to be custodians of peace
Statue of St Francis
Walking the path of St Francis
View of the valley below
After the hermitage, we walked through Assisi, which is super touristy, but we did find a few gems.
This is the misnamed facade of the Temple of Minerva. It was apparently a Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter in the first century BC. It’s six Corinthian columns stand tall and proud reminders of Assisi’s past.
Long after the original Romans were here, the Pope turned the space into a church in 1539.
It’s richly decorated interior shows off the church’s wealth.
An unintended juxtaposition: not far from the church, this head of a wild boar (chingale) and the meats that are used to make a yummy ragu that is a local specialty.
Basilica of St Francis
In the woods by the Basilica, a boat that washed ashore while carrying refugees from North Africa, a reminder of all the people who long for a better life.
And next to the boat, a bell of peace installed in 1986 when Pope John Paul II visited for the international day of reflection, justice and peace.
After Assisi, we wanted to get away from the crowds, so we took a ride on a country road to a goat farm near Bevanga.
Formaggi, per favore.
Bevanga’s church of San Silvestro was founded in 1195, and is well preserved despite many earthquakes since then.
Quiet, austere and no tourists…
Now back at our hotel for sagrantino, goat cheese, salami, bread and movie night. ☺️
