Umbrian delights

This area of Umbria is all about St. Francis, and like the American claims from my childhood that “George Washington slept here,” I cannot vouch for anything you are about to read, starting with the hermitage of Carceri on Mount Subasio above Assisi.

This hermitage is said to have been Frances’ retreat, where he lived with his devout colleagues in the woods and communed with nature while taking a vow of poverty. It is a peaceful retreat founded in 1426 that has been well preserved in the name of the Franciscans.

The original well

Tables to take meals

A pledge to be custodians of peace

Statue of St Francis

Walking the path of St Francis

View of the valley below

After the hermitage, we walked through Assisi, which is super touristy, but we did find a few gems.

This is the misnamed facade of the Temple of Minerva. It was apparently a Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter in the first century BC. It’s six Corinthian columns stand tall and proud reminders of Assisi’s past.

Long after the original Romans were here, the Pope turned the space into a church in 1539. 

It’s richly decorated interior shows off the church’s wealth.

An unintended juxtaposition: not far from the church, this head of a wild boar (chingale) and the meats that are used to make a yummy ragu that is a local specialty.

Basilica of St Francis

In the woods by the Basilica, a boat that washed ashore while carrying refugees from North Africa, a reminder of all the people who long for a better life.

And next to the boat, a bell of peace installed in 1986 when Pope John Paul II visited for the international day of reflection, justice and peace. 

After Assisi, we wanted to get away from the crowds, so we took a ride on a country road to a goat farm near Bevanga.

Formaggi, per favore.

Bevanga’s church of San Silvestro was founded in 1195, and is well preserved despite many earthquakes since then.

Quiet, austere and no tourists…

Now back at our hotel for sagrantino, goat cheese, salami, bread and movie night. ☺️

Birthday blog

I’ve been fortunate to have some fantastic birthday celebrations: in Salzburg with John Bateman, in Creede with Ava, Jason, Isaac, Lennon, Matt and Johamy, and over the years with Randy and Patrick, John and with family. This year I turn 65 in Santa Maria degli Angeli, adjacent to Assisi, Italy, at the romantic, gorgeous and indulgent Santa Maria degli Ancillotti (santamariadegliancillotti.com).

The retreat sits high on a hill where sunsets cast a yellow glow on the surrounding mountains

And mornings are cool and bright against the Umbrian stone

There are olive trees, gardens, a pool and host dogs.

The Villa family that has owned and run the hotel for 35 years are the most gracious hosts.

Gourmet breakfasts and dinners are served in the dining room. Sagrantino Montefalco wines are a must at dinner and lunch.

Our first road trip adventure was to Fonti del Clitunno, a natural springs that has been revered since Roman times and that has inspired many poets and painters.

Clitumnus

By Lord Byron

But thou, Clitumnus! in thy sweetest wave

Of the most living crystal that was e'er

The haunt of river nymph, to gaze and lave

Her limbs where nothing hid them, thou dost rear

Thy grassy banks whereon the milk-white steer

Grazes; the purest god of gentle waters!

And most serene of aspect, and most clear;

Surely that stream was unprofaned by slaughters, — A mirror and a bath for Beauty's youngest daughters!

And on thy happy shore a temple still,
Of small and delicate proportion, keeps,
Upon a mild declivity of hill,
Its memory of thee; beneath it sweeps
Thy current's calmness; oft from out it leaps
The finny darter with the glittering scales,
Who dwells and revels in thy glassy deeps;
While, chance, some scattered water-lily sails
Down where the shallower wave still tells its bubbling
tales.

Indeed, the clear waters and the unusual vegetation below create a place of stunning beauty, much like a Monet painting.

A view of Trevi from the road below, as we headed next to Spello.

Another ancient walled city, Spello is called the city of flowers. It is immaculately cared for by residents who are clearly very proud of their homes and gardens.

Church of Saint Andrea.

Beauty at every corner

Another very happy birthday for me. 😊

Pilgrims process

I’m tempted to boast that in the last week, we’ve walked 50 miles through Tuscany. In fact, we have, and for the most part, it’s been wonderful, with beautiful views, comfortable accommodations, yummy food and wine, perfect weather and lots of time in nature, which I love.

But what about the pilgrimage part? What have I learned from walking for seven consecutive days from  town to town? First I’m grateful that we have the ability to make the walk, that we have time away from earning a living, and that we have the physical and mental health to challenge ourselves in this way. I’m glad that we are walking because we want to, not because we have no home, because we are refugees, or displaced people.

For us, pilgrimage has been a privilege. We have been welcomed wherever we have wandered. People along the route have been friendly and helpful. In a few places, pilgrimage has afforded us discounted admission or a free bus ride. 

The first two days were the hardest, the farthest, the biggest hills. Now we are accustomed to waking up, packing up, fueling up and hitting the road. The paths are well marked, and we have traveled place to place in daylight, arriving in time for afternoon coffee, beer, wine or spritz. 

Walking has taught me to be more patient, to take my time, to appreciate the journey as much as the destination. It has helped me appreciate what my body can still do at 64 and 360-plus days. It has made me think about my feet and all the places they have taken me, what a privilege it is to be able to walk, despite blisters and sore ankles. 

Yes, we’ve been in many churches along the way, but being outside every day has felt like one big church of trees and rivers, sun and shade, birdsong and agriculture, clay and volcanic lava under foot, and persistent annoying mosquitos. 

We’ve walked with intention and attention. Walking makes the days longer, time slows down on foot. You can’t rush or hurry. It takes as much time as it takes to arrive to your destination. We’ve walked all week for our friend Patrick, who is dying, lit candles in every church, prayed in our unreligious way for him and Randy and Alex. Our hearts are heavy but also full. We are tired but also wide awake.

We’ve talked a lot about death along the way, and have often felt the presence of Dante Alighieri, who walked these same paths after he was banished from his home in Florence, which led him to write his allegory about purgatory, hell and paradise. One can choose to live in purgatory or hell, or live for the promise of paradise after death. I prefer to live in paradise now, to make every day as close to paradise as possible. I wish that for you, too, and may peace be with you on your journey.

Siena

Siena is a big city on the Via Francigena and attracts many tourists, but when you see how beautiful it is, it’s clear why everyone comes here, including hundreds of nuns on trips celebrating the Jubilee year.

A view around every corner

Even the local fruitcakes are dressed up pretty

Il Campo plaza

The Duomo, which was intended to be the largest and most spectacular in Europe until the Black Death and structural problems put an end to construction in 1348. 

Church of St Catherine of San Domenico, patron saint of Italy and Europe

City view

St Catherine’s severed thumb in a reliquary. Her severed head is also on display.

Narrow streets and arched passageways

And some images inside the basilica, where I was fortunate to attend a short Saturday morning mass with a mass of nuns, or…

Nuns en masse

Arrivederci, Siena. We love you.

Walking back in time

I missed one day of posting to the blog and now I have millennia to report.

Let’s start here with John on the Via Francigena in 2025

He starts the morning on the route, which takes us through thick woods, open fields and tree-lined roads marked by ancient stone walls.

After a short time, we enter an old church in Abbadia Isola. 

It is a church dedicated to saints Cirino and Salvatore.

Dating back to the second half of the 12th century, it was built upon a more ancient complex that goes back to the 11th century.

The place has an ancient glow to it as sun streams thru tiny windows.

Once a monastery, the building next door now houses the Monteriggioni ancient history museum that documents medieval and Etruscan treasures found under the ground we stood on.

Pottery in clay

Etruscan coffins

More gorgeous urns and perfume vases

We stayed in medieval times as we continued to Monteriggioni, a fortress high on a hill, and in a nod to the 21st century, the inspiration for the locale of the video game Assasins Creed.

We stopped for a quick drink, and then hopped a local bus to Siena. Check the next post about our time in Siena.