Day 3 on the Via Francigena

Being a pilgrim, walking miles each day, allows one to see the world at a slower pace, reminds one of how big the world is and how small, how time and history are both very long and very short, and how a good way to spend each day is to pay attention and also to let go.

Today we departed the tourist-infested San Gimignano for an 8-mile, 5-hour walk up and down the Tuscan hills to Colle Val d’Este.

Leaving through the Porta San Giovanni, the imposing stone gate dating back to the 13th century

South of the city, you can see the city’s fortified walls. From inside the night before, we looked out thru the fortress's skinny pass through windows…

We also saw Dante, orating from his Divine Comedy. Then we ate pizza and gelato. 

This morning, we forded some streams…

Visited some churches and old monasteries…

And found evidence in the dirt that, in fact, millions of years ago, Tuscany was under the sea, which we learned accounts for the composition of the soil that produces tasty wine grapes.

Tonight’s stay is behind the walls of this castle below. It has been a popular destination for pilgrims and other wanderers since the Middle Ages.

So many beautiful views…

The campanile, or bell tower, on an empty street

Once again, the Madonna and Dante have the last word.

Dear Madonna, whoever seeks divine grace without first calling out to you would be like someone hoping to fly without wings. May you all find your grace and your wings.

Pellegrino

You’ve probably been drinking Pellegrino for years, but you may only learn today that Pellegrino is Italian for a pilgrim, and John and I siamo Pellegrini oggi.

Monday we trekked 22,884 steps or approximately 8.4 miles and the equivalent elevation of 49 floors from the town of Coiano to Gambassi Terme, where we rested in an absolutely stunning Tuscan retreat.

A Via Francigena marker

Little shrine along the path.  Benches are a rarity, so we should have sat here but we didn’t. 

Abandoned farmhouses are more common sites. Fixer upper?

Courtyard outside our room at Tenuta Sant’Ilario

One of the best meals so far at the hotel: pork filet encrusted in dried fruit and apple and turmeric purée with pecorino cream

John had regional farmer fare: tomato and bread soup.

Leaving Gambassi

Olives ready to be harvested

Always stopping in churches

And walking through history

San Gimigiano in the distance

Day 2 began with breakfast, followed by a brief walk around Gambassi before setting off on our trek to San Gimignano. We walked through a lot of countryside, vineyards, and even passed some livestock before reaching a more well traveled road with cars full of wine tourists. Speaking of wine, we stopped for a tasting at Cesani winery.

This wine with vernaccia di San Gimignano grapes is superb. It is a local grape grown only here since the 11th century, and our visit made for a fine interlude during our day of walking.

A platter to accompany the wine.

San Gimignano, with its fortified walls and towers

A cypress tree casts a long afternoon shadow

 Today’s numbers: 14 km, or 9.4 miles, 25365 steps and 46 floors of elevation, 2 glasses of wine, 4 kinds of cheese, 3 types of cured meats, and 2 cookies given to us by a kind shopkeeper.

Fianlly, we reach our hotel behind the cistern. Time for a hot shower and a cold drink!

Via Francigena

We arrived today in San Miniato in preparation for our journey tomorrow morning on the Via Francigena, which is the route that newly appointed Bishop Sigeric took from Canterbury to Rome in 990 AD to receive his vestment from the Pope. Sigeric documented his journey, and so it is today a pilgrim walk. 

San Miniato

This is one of two towers in this hillside 11th century village that once was the capital of the Lombard Holy Roman Empire. The other tower in town is called 

Federico Tower, which was part of a fortress here and once served as a grand lookout protecting the village from invaders. Sadly, the original tower was blown up by Nazi troops upon their retreat. 

Wine lunch at Fiorile with an excellent red from Vinci and…

My very first pasta with white truffles. Squisito!

Another scenic shot or two from our evening walk.

Now it’s one foot in front of the other as we celebrate not the Catholic Jubilee, but our own 30 years of partnership, and my 65th anno. 🇮🇹💕

Santa Maria Novella

Of all the Florentine sites I visited, Santa Maria Novella was my favorite.

A couple takes wedding photos in front of the basilica

Santa Maria Novella was built in the 1200s by the Dominicans, who ran it until the friars lost their independence in the mid 1500s, and none other than Cosimo de Medici acquired patronage of the church complex. It was at that time that Medici hired Vasari to do a remodel to make the church look more contemporary according to the precepts of the Council of Trent.

Tornabuoni chapel 

Botticelli nativity scene

Rainbow thru stained glass

What I loved about my visit in addition to the Gothic design is that the Dominicans have taken back the buildings, and once a month, they display the original frescos alongside the Vasari additions.

The Florentine paintings open on hinged frames to reveal the frescoes underneath

I also found so much beauty in the exterior cloisters, which are also original to the Dominicans

Spanish chapel

Finally, the original Dominicans perfected various healing tinctures and perfumes on this spot, and they are still making them today. If you stand in just the right place in the cloister, you can smell a heavenly scent. Truly a feast for the senses.