Sunday, April 2, 2023

Miyako Odori

You’ve probably heard of geisha or read the novel Memoirs of a Geisha. Kyoto is the primary city in Japan for geisha, who entertain in private tea houses. Entertainment includes singing, playing traditional musical instruments, dancing, and the art of hospitality, including hosting tea ceremonies. Once a year, in celebration of spring, the geisha perform for the public, and the most famous of these performances is the Miyako Odori, which we were fortunate to see today at the newly restored Kabu Kaburenjo theatre in Gion. Photos of the performance are not permitted, but we did find one from the final dress rehearsal to share.


Plus, there was a photo op in the lobby.
                       

We loved the show for its elaborate costumes, make-up, and storytelling dance performances that were rich with near-perfect, very challenging choreography. The music was sung and played live, all by women. All in all, I’m guessing there were close to 50 geisha (also known as geiko and maiko) in the cast. 


A side note: Geiko (a variation of the term geisha) begin their careers as apprentices called ‘maiko’, usually at age 15. From then on, they move into a geiko house and dedicate their lives to the geiko world. After learning the basics of geisha traditions, behavior and dress, they study music, dance and calligraphy, and begin to join the geiko in entertaining clients. Around the age of 20, maiko graduate from their apprenticeship, and become fully-fledged geiko.


The first time that Gion Kobu’s nationally-famous geiko performed in public was in 1872. Since the second season in 1873, the dances have been held at the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theatre. 


The geisha perform three times a day every day during the month of April, which would seem to be very hard on the body, as the dances are very physical. Plus, every performance is expected to be flawless.

Though not flawless ourselves, we walked to and from the theatre for the show (over 6 miles) so we stopped in Gion for lunch and then at a store and cafe with everything matcha! Of course, we indulged.




We leave Kyoto tomorrow for Kii Katsura. Sayonara, Kyoto — we love you!



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