Budapest: A Tale of Many Cities

Today we arrived in Budapest on the 67th anniversary of the 1956 Hungarian Revolution. The country celebrates by honoring the thousands of civilians who were killed or wounded in countrywide protests against control of the Hungarian government by the Soviet Union. Ultimately, Soviet tanks and troops rolled into the country, squelching the protests. The revolution failed. Today, Hungary is led by Viktor Orban, a hardline autocrat who some consider to be a Putin puppet.

My first impressions of Budapest are that it is a tale of many cities. In walking under five miles, we saw many drab post-Soviet buildings, beautiful 19th century architecture that needs a good cleaning and restoration, as well as modern hotels and “Fashion Street” — a pedestrian promenade with Ritz Carleton and Kimpton hotels. 

Moonrise over a promenade

Soviet-style fresco

The Magyars — the correct name for ethnic Hungarians

A church, a park, a statue, a man resting

One of the most beautiful buildings near our hotel in Astoria

Our hotel lobby, built and decorated in 1914. Fortunately our room has been completely remodeled more recently, but the lobby and restaurant are a step back in time. (As an aside, Annette Benning and Jeremy Irons shot a scene from “Being Julia” in the hotel lobby.)

A view of Buda Castle from across the Danube in Pest

The Jewish Quarter has its own charm, but it is covered in graffiti.  We did have a good lunch there and enjoyed walking around the alley of ruin bars and street vendors. I couldn’t resist this babushka-covered old woman selling embroidered linen from Transylvania.

Seen in the Jewish quarter: “Whoever saves a life is considered as if he has saved an entire world.” — the Talmud

With many Kidnapped posters from Israel covering the walls and windows of the Jewish shops, I found myself asking what is the fate of the person who takes a life. Has he not trampled upon an entire world?