Judapest

We’re back in the city now, and still so much to share. Will start with “Judapest” before moving on to non-Jewish Budapest. 

Long, long history of Jews here, dating back to when they were slaves for the Romans, who settled on the Buda side of the Danube in 14 BC. In fact, Buda was then called Aquincumbent, referring to the natural thermal baths here, and was the capital of the Roman region of Pannonia. Jews lived in Buda and in Pest throughout most of the city’s history, and at one time numbered in the hundreds of thousands. They also became well known in government, industry, performing arts, literature, etc.

For example, the founder of Israel Theodore Herzl was born here.

Karesz shows us all that remains of the wall that defined the Jewish ghetto in 1944. One of the most amazing stories he told us is that most of the 565,000 Hungarian Jews that were killed in the Holocaust were either murdered by Hungarian police or shipped to death camps in eight weeks in June-July 1944.

“And you shall tell your children…”

Because the Jewish community in Budapest was here for so long and was so prominent, prior to the 20th century, they built the largest synagogue in Europe. It’s stunningly beautiful, and still has an active, albeit small, congregation. It’s also open to tourists on weekdays.

Bimah at the front, women’s balconies upstairs, and pews like a church, it is a “Neo-log” church, which is pretty close to Orthodox, but a little more modern. I will try to attend Shabbat services, and if I do (unsure because of very high security precautions), I would not be able to sit with John.

Moorish tile designs on the ceiling

During the Holocaust, corpses were piled in the synagogue courtyard, and because many could not be identified were buried here in 12 mass graves under what was originally a reflecting pool.

A second smaller synagogue on the property is more Art Nouveau style. Also still in use, particularly in cooler months because there is no heat in the larger sanctuary.

Paper kippot for visitors.

A weeping willow in remembrance of Shoah victims. Names are inscribed on the leaves.

Also in the courtyard, a memorial to Righteous Gentiles who saved Jewish lives. Raoul Wallenberg features prominently.

No Jewish tour would be complete without eating. We had lunch at Dobrumba, an Israeli/Middle Eastern restaurant in the Jewish Quarter that Hannah recommended. Lunch was delicious, topped off by this dessert, which is serving as today’s Pastry of the Day.

Basboussa, a semolina cake soaked in orange blossom water, and topped with yogurt, slivered almonds and pomegranate seeds. Will I ever find a dessert I don’t like? Not so far…