Konstanz

 

This is Imperia. She was created by sculptor Peter Lenk and installed in the Konstanz harbor in 1993. Almost 30 feet high, she rotates once every three minutes, keeping guard on the boats and the water and the people of this ancient city.

I’m sharing her photo here because she’s a wonderful entry-point into the story of Konstanz. With its origins in the Roman Empire, Konstanz real claim to fame is that it was the site of the Council of Konstanz (or Constance) between 1414 and 1418. This was a gathering of thousands of men from all of Europe who descended on the city to debate the future of the Catholic Church and resolve what was called the Great Schism caused by the papacy’s move from Rome to Avignon.

I can’t recount all the details of all the debates, but in the end, the church elected Martin V as its true and only pope. That’s Martin V in Imperia’s left hand, and in her right is King Sigismund, the holy emperor at the time. Imperia, who is inspired by a Roman-era courtesan, is strong and sexy and beautiful, and the men she’s playing with in her palms are portrayed as fools. I’d say it’s feminism at its best.

Despite Lenk’s sense of humor, there was a lot at stake during the Council. Take a look at some of the wealth displayed in the churches here.

And the arguments weren’t just about wealth and power. Jan Hus, a pre-Lutheran church reformer, came to the Council to protest against church indulgences, or monies paid to the church in return for forgiveness. He claimed the church leaders were corrupt, so Sigismund had Hus burned at the stake. Prior to his death, Hus supposedly was imprisoned in the very building that is now our hotel.

As usual, things were horrible for the Jews, too. Above is an ancient pulverturm or powder tower that was part of the original city walls. After the Council, King Sigismund imprisoned a bunch of Jews in the tower, in the hopes that the money he collected to permit their release would pay his debts.

As in Freiberg, the SS burned the synagogue here and sent the Jews to Gurs, and then to death. Below is the only monument to their fate.

Violent history aside, Konstanz is a beautiful city, the buildings in which are well preserved. Because the city is partly in Germany and partly in Switzerland, it was not bombed during the war.

We are thrilled to be here to enjoy Konstanz and the Bodensee at sunset and sunrise.

Hoping all is well at home, and that Martin V and King Sigismund help remind you that many men in positions of power are little more than fools. Turn off the TV and keep your eyes on the horizon.